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  • Mikelle Drew

28 Days of Black History: Lois K. Alexander

Though Lois K. Alexander-Lane was said to have been a fashion designer, her legacy will be tied to not what she designed but her efforts to bring more attention and recognition to other Black designers by establishing the Black Fashion Museum.

The Harlem extension of the Black Fashion Museum, before it closed its doors in 2007.

Lois Alexander & Barbara Burwell at the Black Fashion Museum during Harlem Week, 1989. (Photo by Jerry Engel/NY Post Archives / © NYP Holdings, Inc. via Getty Images)

Born in Little Rock, Arkansas in 1916, Lois Marie Kindle's early fashion influences came from peering into department store windows. She graduated from what is now Hampton University in Virginia and made her way north to New York, receiving a Master’s degree in retailing, fashion & merchandising from NYU. Her research for her master’s thesis on Blacks in retailing led to her discovery of just how many Black designers were in fashion but often went unrecognized and uncelebrated for their talents. This was the catalyst for Harlem Institute of Fashion (established in 1966) and the Black Fashion Museum (established in 1979).

The two institutions were a pillar of excellence for Harlem: one teaching tailoring, millinery, dressmaking as well as mathematics and Black history; the other showcasing the talents of Black designers or garments worn by Black celebrities. She eventually opened an extension of the museum in Washington, D.C. However, all 3 institutions struggled to get traffic and stay open and eventually closed their doors in 2007.

Lois K. Alexander with a designer piece housed in the Black Fashion Museum.

Alexander-Lane died in 2007 at the age of 91. Her daughter, Joyce Alexander Bailey, has since donated the collection to the Smithsonian National Museum for African American History and consists of pieces by Rosa Parks, Anne Lowe, Geoffrey Holder, Stephen Burrowes and countless vintage pieces by unknown African American dressmakers. There, Lois’ objective–to “dispel the myth that Black people were newfound talent in the fashion industry”–can be carried out for years to come.